Which carp lead system should I use

Not only does your carp fishing rig play a big part in how successfully it hooks any fish that takes it inside its mouth, but also the type of lead set-up that it is used with.

Generally, lead systems work by either pricking the carp with your hook the instant that the hook link tightens enough that the weight of the lead comes into play; or by making it very difficult for the fish to get rid of the hook once it has initially pricked itself. In both cases the carp will eventually bolt off, if your lead system is doing its job, which will set the hook and give you a proper take.

Both types of set-up have their place and anglers all have their favourites, which they will swear by, but each lead systems definitely has advantages, and disadvantages, depending on the fishing situation it is being used in.

Here we take a look at all of the different types, and how best to use them.

Running leads

This is the most traditional type of lead system for carp fishing – aside from freelining with no weight at all on the line – and involves the use of a lead mounted in such a way that your line can pull freely through it.

How freely your line will run through it depends on whether you are using a swivel lead, which is the most popular option, or some sort of inline lead, or even a free running lead clip. A swivel lead attached to a special running lead system – such as the Korda Running Rig Kit - will make it even more free-running.

A swivel lead will offer the least resistance, especially when being fished with a slack or semi-slack line, and whilst the fish won’t initially feel much resistance when it first tightens your hook link, and it doesn’t use the weight of the lead to drive the hook home, like some other set-ups do, it does have the advantage of making I hard for the fish to get rid of the hook once it has pricked itself.

If the fish doesn’t bolt off when it feels that something is wrong, then it can actually use a semi-fixed bolt rig style set up to help itself get rid of the hook, by shaking its head against the resistance from the lead.

This type of set up can be used with any size of lead, but actually often works most efficiently with a heavier lead which will stay in place of the lake bed whilst the line is allowed to run through it.

Running lead systems can be used with any type of rig, but do lend themselves more to longer hook links where you are trying to achieve a confidence type set-up, where the carp doesn’t realise that it has taken your hook into its mouth until it is too late, as opposed to very short hook lengths that rely on the fish almost instantly pricking itself against the lead and bolting. A running rig also tends to give better bite indication, whichever direction the fish moves once hooked.

Bolt rigs

A bolt rig or semi-fixed lead set up works in totally the opposite way to a running lead and is designed so that as soon as the hook link tightens, the carp encounters the weight of the lead, which drives the hook home and makes it bolt.

Whilst you do get some set ups which are a hybrid of the two – where the lead is free to run for a short distance before it hits some sort of stop – most modern bolt rigs are based on the full weight of the lead coming into play as quickly as possible, to the extent that even the lead shape can play a part via the way that its weight is distributed, and how quickly the fish feels all of that force.

Basically, any type of lead set up which isn’t free running is classed as some sort of semi-fixed rig, whether the lead is fished on a lead clip, inline, or helicopter style, as it will provide a bolt effect, to varying degrees.

The whole point of a bolt rig is to hook the carp as quickly as possible, and they tend to be used with shorter hook links – depending on the type of lake bed you are fishing over – although not always, and a lot comes down to personal preference. Danny Fairbrass swears by very short hook links, in situations where that is appropriate/effective such as over clean gravel, whilst other Team Korda anglers prefer something longer.

Lead clips

Lead clips have been around for a long time, and the original Korda version was one of the earlier products that Danny Fairbrass brought out.

The whole idea is that if the lead becomes snagged on anything, such as weed, it will releases from the clip and leave you in direct contact with the fish, thus greatly increasing your chances of landing it – jettisoning the lead also reduces the chances of a fish getting snagged up in the first place, especially on lakes that are very weedy.

How easily the lead will come free of the clip is dependent on how you set the tail rubber – the further onto the clip that you push it, the more force is required for the lead to come off. This makes it very versatile and means you can adapt it depending on the angling situation, as whilst you don’t want the lead to become snagged, you also don’t want to be dumping leads unnecessarily every time you get a bite.

A lead clip works most effectively when it is securely attached to your hook link swivel, as this applies all of the force, if it becomes snagged, to be applied to the lead and helps it to discharge. The Hybrid Lead Clip is actually fixed in place, with your main line or leader tying to one end, and your hook link to the other, which helps the lead come off whenever you need it to.

If you are fishing a lead clip running style – this is achieved by giving the eye of your size 8 swivel a gentle squeeze with a pair of pliers, to make it more of an oval shape, so it sits inside the nose of the lead clip but doesn’t fully lock into it – it will still allow the lead to come off, but far less easily than if it is fixed to the hook link swivel, so you need to make sure the tail rubber isn’t pushed on very far.

This set-up will provide an initial bolt effect, but the swivel quickly pulls free from the nose of the clip, leaving it free running and preventing the carp from using the lead to try and shake the hook free.  

A good tip from Danny Fairbrass, when fishing a running lead clip, is to leave a longer tag end on your knot to your hook link swivel and to tuck that inside the clip, so that if a fish has picked up your rig and gotten away with it, then when you wind in the tag end should be outside of the clip, and you can adjust your rig to try and make it more efficient and to hook the next carp that takes it.

Another advantage of lead clips is that it makes it very easy to change your lead size or shape if you need to, or to remove the lead altogether when packing up at the end of the session and putting your rods away.

Lead clips are compatible with any type of lead shape or size, and are also suitable for fishing over pretty much any type of lakebed, depending on the hook link material you using – if using a stiff hook link over deep silt, then there is a risk your lead clip will sink deeply into it, leaving your hook link sticking up and not presented in the way you intended it to be.

The only real disadvantage with it is that due to the way the lead is attached to the clip – especially if the swivel is left on the lead – it allows for quite a bit of movement before the full bolt effect of the lead is felt by the fish.

Helicopter set ups

Various forms of helicopter rig have been around for decades and involve attaching a lead to the end of your line and having a hook link which is free to rotate around during the cast, hence the name.

It actually originated from a sea fishing rig and became popular because it tended to be fairly tangle-free – especially when used with rig tubing or a leader – plus its stability through the air made it a good choice for extreme range fishing.

Modern variations rotate much more freely than the original ones did and are also a lot safer, with either the lead, the hook link, or both being able to come free in the event of your line breaking. Arguably, it is actually the safest rig when set up properly,  as all that the fish is left towing around, if your line breaks, is the hook link.

There are plenty of purpose-designed systems for attaching your hook link – such as the Korda Naked Chod Safety System or Leadcore Chod Safety System – which can be used either directly on your main line or with some sort of leader. This includes ready tied versions on Kable leadcore or Dark Matter fused leader material.

If you are fishing in weedy or snaggy situations and want the lead to release, should it get stuck during the fight, then the Heli-Safe bead is ideal. It can be set so that the lead easily releases; only releases under more pressure; or doesn’t release at all, depending on how you set it up. As long as the hook link can come free, there is no need for the lead to be able to, from a safety point of view.

A helicopter set up can be used with all sorts of different rigs – including the chod rig, which is designed to be used with it – including the highly popular Ronnie rig or spinner rig. It can also be fished over any type of lake bed, and when casting it into deeper silt or even weed, simply move the top bead far enough up that the hook link will still end up lying flat on the lake bed.

In terms of disadvantages, it tends to give the fish a fair bit of movement before the full weight of the lead is felt and comes into play. Plus the hook link can end up landing so that is lying back along the main line/leader, and this can cause the fish to avoid picking it up, as was seen in the Norton Disney Underwater film.

Inline leads

Inline leads are a very under-rated way of fishing these days, but despite not being as fashionable as other set-ups, they can be incredibly effective and some anglers swear by them.

In years gone by an inline set up could be prone to tangles, especially when fished with a braided hook link and without anti-tangle tubing or some sort of leader, but these days that is nowhere near as much of an issue.

With any sort of stiffer hook link involving a boom type material, or even a coated braid, and coupled with a more streamline inline lead set-up – such as the Korda Safety Inline Sleeves combined with Dark Matter Nano Tubing – this set-up is pretty tangle-free, and even more so as long as you stop the lead when it hits the water and feel it down on a tight line (if it lands in the water like a bag of spanners then that increases the risk of a tangle!).

The biggest advantage with an inline lead is how quickly the fish feels the full weight of the lead once the hook link tightens, and especially so when using a lead shape with a weight-forward distribution.

One disadvantage, especially with any slightly stiffer hook link material, is that if the lead sinks into the bottom at all, it can cause your hook link to loop up off of the bottom.

Inline leads are also the perfect set-up when using a solid PVA bag, as they provide a very compact set-up that fits neatly into the bag, and can be used with short, supple braided hook links as you don’t have to worry about tangles. You even get inline leads purposely designed for use with solid bags, such as the Korda Solidz leads.

A standard inline lead can’t come free from your line during the fight, such as if it gets snagged in weed, but it does have a more streamlined profile so is less likely to get caught us in the first place, versus a swivel lead. You do need to ensure that it can come free if using any sort of shockleader and must be able to easily pass over the knot – the Korda Safety Inline Sleeve Nano Tubing & Leadcore is ideal (there is also a naked version for use when fishing your main line straight through), as rather than relying on the lead insert to pass over the knot, the lead detaches that, leaving its full internal bore free and with plenty of room to pass over any knot.

Drop-off inline lead

The drop-off inline lead is a variation on a standard inline lead which allows the lead to come free after the carp has initially pricked itself and once it starts either shaking its head to try and get rid of the hook, or bolts off.

This set-up is typically used with a leadcore leader and lends itself more to fishing at closer ranges, as trying to hurl it towards the horizon risks the lead coming free during the cast.

Rather than the leadcore, fused leader - or just your main line - going through the centre of the lead as normal, a tail rubber is threaded on and the leadcore is then tied to your hook link swivel, but unlike with any other set-up, it is attached to the same swivel eye that the hook link is tied to – leaving one eye of the size 8 swivel free.

The free eye of the swivel is then simply pushed into the nose of an inline lead - flat pears or square pears work particularly well and also provide a very good bolt effect due to their shape – so that it locks in place, and the tail rubber is pushed over the over end of the plastic lead insert to lock everything in place. So basically, you end up with the leadcore running around the outside of the lead.

As soon as a fish picks up your rig and tightens it, then you get the bolt effect from the lead, like you would with a conventional inline set-up, but when it bolts or shakes its head, the swivel pulls free from the nose of your lead, and that lead is free to drop off.

COG Lead System

COG stands for Centre of Gravity and is a lead system that was designed by Korda to ensure the maximum bolt effect/weight of the lead is felt by the fish, as this clever set-up has an anchor point right at the centre of the lead.

This provides a bolt effect similar to what you would get with an inline lead as it is immediately felt as soon as the hook link has tightened, but provides even more force relative to the weight of the lead, due to the positioning of that anchor point – hence the name of the product.

This set-up also incorporates a lead clip, so once a fish is hooked, then should the lead become snagged, it can pull free, but unlike a conventional lead clip, the special Korda COG System means that there is no play at all before the full weight of the lead is felt – with a standard clip there can be quite a bit of movement before a full bolt effect comes into play.

The COG is designed to be used when casting at shorter ranges – its design makes it good for use on slopes, as it won’t roll down them – or when being dropped from a boat or bait boat, and that is reflected in the lead sizing, which goes all the way up to 8oz.

Danny Fairbrass is a big fan of the COG lead system, where it is suited to the situations he is fishing in.

Fish safety - carp anglers lead setup must be safe if the main line breaks

Whichever type of lead set up you decide to use, it is essential that the fish can get rid of the lead and isn’t left dragging it around, should your main line break.

Most modern day lead systems are designed to be safe, as long as they are used properly, and tend to rely on the hook link swivel pulling free from the lead clip or inline lead insert – or in the case of helicopter rigs, the hook link being able to slide up the main line until it pulls free of the broken end of it.

The addition of any type of leader, whether it be a longer shockleader for casting, or some sort of leadcore or fused leader such as the Dark Matter range, can complicate things as it adds a knot/join further up the line. It is essential that the lead can still detach when using a leader, otherwise the fish will be left trailing around a lead and that greatly increases the chances of the carp becoming tethered.

Special version of lead clips, such as the Korda Hybrid Lead Clips, and inline lead inserts, such as Shockleader Sleeves, or even our special Inline Safety Kit, ensure that the fish won’t be left trailing the lead. The same applies to helicopter set ups, via the Korda No-Trace Beads, which always allow the hook link to releases, plus the Heli-Safe System where the lead drops off.

When it comes to fish safety, if you aren’t sure about your set-up then always ask somebody to be on the safe side, whether that be another angler on the bank, the bailiff/fisheries team at the lake, or somebody working in a tackle shop.