How to spod for carp and what tackle do you need

A spod is one of the most versatile baiting tools that is available to anglers and should definitely part of your armoury for accurate baiting.

Traditional spods were basically a plastic tube with a floating nose cone, and initially were the sort of thing that people knocked up at home – Steradent tubes were a popular choice for boilie spods! – before going on to become commercially available in all sorts of different versions for pretty much any carp bait that you could want to introduce by casting it out to the spot you were fishing on, whereupon it floated on the surface and allowed the bait to empty out.

The main issues with spods is that during flight some of your bait would come out of the back of it, landing well short of your baited area and in the same direction as your fishing lines would be going. Plus they weren’t easy to wind in quickly, once they emptied. Although they did also have advantages in that they could be twitched back as they emptied, leaving a line of bait.

These days it is rare that you see anyone using a traditional spod, as the invention of the Spomb changed everything – with numerous different versions now available based on the same principle, and with the whole device opening up when it hits the surface and some sort of trigger being used – and not only did no bait spill out of them, as they are completely enclosed and based on a rocket shape, but they are also very easy to wind in and almost skip across the surface, which made it a lot quicker to put out large amounts of bait very accurately. Whilst the name of the device may have changed, everyone still refers to it as spodding, as we will do throughout this article.

Once you get to grips with using a Spomb, then baiting up becomes very easy and you can introduce whatever bait you want to your target zone, extremely accurately, in any weather conditions.

Which baits can you use in a spod mix

When it comes to the type of bait that you can use in a spod or Spomb, then the answer is pretty much anything that can fit inside it!

They can be used for smaller particle baits such as hemp; naturals such as maggots, caster and chopped worm; nuts and other larger seeds and pulses; pellets; boilies; small balls of groundbait; and even floaters such as dog biscuits; or soupy mixes for zig fishing (as long as they’re thick enough not to leak out prior to casting). The options and different combinations of baits will cover any sort of fishing that you do, as long as it is within casting range.

This means that unlike when using a catapult, you can mix all different shapes and sizes of bait together, and still introduce it accurately around your rigs.

It also means that you can put bait out whenever you want to, and unlike with a catapult or throwing stick, you don’t have to worry about seagulls taking the baits, which on many waters these days can be a real problem, with more baits being eaten by them than actually reaching the lake bed.

All that you need to bear in mind is whether the bait that you are using has enough weight to allow you to accurately cast your spod to the area you are fishing – the lighter the spod is, the harder it will be to cast it a long way, plus it is more likely to be affected by wind.

For most baits though, especially any sort of particle, this isn’t a concern and they will give the spod sufficient weight that it flies like an arrow and goes where you are aiming – obviously allowing for any crosswind and adjusting your aim accordingly. 

Spods for carp fishing - different sizes and bait spread

Spombs come in a variety of different sizes, so that you can choose how much bait you are putting out each time and depending on the baiting pattern you want to achieve.

The largest size obviously holds more bait and makes it quicker to put all your bait out, but also means that it is giving you larger clumps of bait in one spot – depending on the water depth you’re fishing in and how much the bait spreads out as it sinks.

So, there might be situations where it is preferable to use a smaller size, if you are trying to spread your bait out more over an area rather than trying to put it tightly all on the same spot, even if it takes an extra few dozen casts.

Another factor is of course the amount of disturbance that the largest spombs make compared to smaller sizes, and whilst on some lakes the fish are actually attracted to the sound, that certainly isn’t true on all waters, and there may be times when you want to top up your spot with a little more bait and without making too much noise.

It also comes down to how comfortable you are casting the largest size spods filled with bait and your casting technique, especially when fishing at longer range, and you might feel more comfortable with a medium size version, certainly if you are new to spodding, as this will feel more like the sort of weight you’re casting on your fishing rods.

How to be accurate and allow for swing back

Probably the most important aspect of spodding is accuracy, as the last thing you want to do is spread bait all over areas that you aren’t fishing, rather than around your rigs.

It is essential that you use the line clip on your reel to ensure that you are casting the spod the correct distance. So, once you have found your spot with a marker float or lead, clipped it up, wound it in and measured how many wraps (rod lengths) it is around your set of distance sticks, you then need to clip your spod rod up.

There is always lots of debate about exactly how far you should clip it up relative to your fishing rods, given that the spod is emptying as it hits the surface, whereas your rigs are swinging back towards you slightly as they sink on a tight line once you hit the clip after casting them out.

There is no exact science to this – in theory Pythagoras theory on right angled triangles should allow us to calculate it exactly as we know both the distance and the depth, which equate to two side of the triangle, but in reality the line on your fishing rod hasn’t sunk in exactly a direct line from your rod tip to the lakebed by the time your rig hits the bottom, and has a curve to it.

Different anglers will tell you different things in terms of how much shorter a distance you should clip your spod rod up at, if you want the bait to be around your rigs rather than beyond them, and there are lots of slightly different ways of getting around this as all sorts of factors come into play – including how far forward you hold the tip of your spod rod (and also your fishing rods) after the cast and when it hits the clip, which comes down to personal casting style, as even this can make a difference of a few feet.

Some anglers will even move their position slightly backwards or forwards during spodding, to slightly vary the distance the spod is landing at and to get more of a spread of bait – but you don’t want to be baiting in front of your rigs by much and on top of your lines, as carp feeding on that bait will likely pick up your lines and may spook before they find your hookbait.

Generally though, the deeper the water the more swing back you are going to get on your rigs – in very deep water such as 40ft, this can be dramatic with your rig landing well over a rod length shorter than where it hits the surface.

Also, the closer the range you are fishing at, the more dramatic the swing back will be – part of this is down to mathematics and angles, but factors such as stretch in the line (if using mono) and any bow in the line when the rig lands (caused by cross winds), and even the size of lead being used (a heavier lead will stretch the line more as well as straightening out any bow more quickly).

So, if you are fishing at longer ranges (in excess of 80 yards) in relatively shallow water of 10ft or less, this swingback isn’t something you have to worry about too much and clipping your spod rod up at the same distance as your fishing rods, or maybe a foot or two shorter, will mean you’re fishing amongst your loosefeed.

In shallower water at closer ranges it will pay to clip your spod rod up slightly shorter than your fishing rods, but again, only by two or three feet, depending on the exact depth and range.

Deeper water presents more of a problem as swing back of your rigs definitely becomes a factor, and how much it does depends on the exact depth and range.

You can of course check exactly where your rig is landing in relation to your spod, by attaching a lead of the same size that you are fishing with, plus a marker float, to your fishing rod and clip that up. Then cast it out and allow it to sink to the bottom in the same way that you would do your rig. Once on the bottom, take the line out of the clip – don’t move the lead at all! – and let the float come up to the surface (it will now be directly above where your rig would have landed). You can then cast your spod to the float and where it lands will show you if you have it clipped up at the correct distance, or need to alter it.

Once you have both your fishing rods and spod clipped up at the right distances it pays to make a note on your phone – so you don’t forget and also for if you fish the same spot again. With this sort of information you could easily turn up in the dark, clip up your rods and cast your rigs out, and then spod a load of bait out as well. As well as the distance you do also need to have picked out some sort of marker on the horizon, such as the top of a tree, that will be visible at night and so you know exactly where to aim.

How to cast a spod

Most spomb-type designs rely on the device hitting the water nose first in order to trigger some sort of mechanism which causes it to open – on the original Spomb this was a button that was spring loaded, but since then all sorts of other things have been tried including magnets.

None of these spombs are 100% efficient when it comes to opening every time they hit the water, and you will get some casts where it happens and you need to retrieve the spomb, let the water drain out, and then cast it again.

The main cause of a spomb not opening is that it has either landed on its side, rather then the nose, or even backwards, and in these scenarios most of the time it won’t open.

This can be caused by the type bait you are putting out in it – heavier baits such as particles tend to encourage it to go in nose first more often than not, whereas lighter baits such as casters or maggots can result in it landing on its side instead, even where you’ve cast and hit the clip perfectly.

Hitting the clip too high above the water, if you overcast by a long way, is often the cause of the spomb crashing down into the lake backwards and not opening.

The perfect cast with a spomb is one that hits the clip just before the spomb hits the water, but at the same time you don’t want to be dropping short so need to be putting enough force into the cast that it hits the clip every time. A lot of this comes down to practice – the same as when casting out your rigs – and getting a feel for the distance, so you are hitting the clip, but not so hard that it negatively effects how your spod, or rig, is landing.  

Getting bits of bait in the mechanism that triggers the spomb opening can also be an issue, either causing it not to open, or worse still, triggering it in mid-flight and spraying bait everywhere – so if you do have issues with either, check the mechanism is clean.

Some sort of small scoop – pet shops sell them – is great for loading messier baits into the spod without getting it everywhere, and saves your hands getting sticky or slippery, which in turn which affect your grip on the rod during casting.

Plus make sure you don’t over-fill your spomb and that it closes easily and don’t need to force it.

What tackle do you need - spod rods/marker rods and reels

When it comes to tackle then you really need a rod that is designed for spodding, especially if using some of the larger sizes of spods which weigh a lot more than your fishing set-up and require a more powerful tool to cast them properly.

Whilst you can buy a top end spod rod such as the Korda Kaizen Platinum which will give you the absolute optimal performance both in terms of distance and accuracy, for most anglers the much more cost-effective Kaizen Green models make more sense, with a choice of 12ft or 13ft versions, depending on your personal preference.

These Kaizen Green spod rods are capable of comfortably casting the largest sizes of spombs, even when filled with particles, and not only are they able to put it incredible distances in the right hands – casting expert Terry Edmonds has used them to cast a large Spomb in excess of 200 yards – but they will also do accurately, thanks to the technology and materials used in their construction.  

There are reels available that are specifically designed for spodding, but you could use pretty much any big pit reel to get you started – the main difference with a spod reel is that it has a higher gear ratio than your typical big pit carp reel. This means that you can wind the spod back in quicker and makes the whole process slightly faster – plus you aren’t paying for features that you don’t need, such as a good drag system, as you aren’t going to be playing fish with these reels!

Braided main line and leaders

A fine diameter braided main line makes the whole process of spodding, even at very long range, much easier, as it allows you to cast further, and with less effort.

Braids such as the Korda Spod Braid and SLR Braid will allow you to cast a spod incredible distances – further than you can put a rig with your fishing rods, And when fishing at shorter distances it means that you aren’t having to put lots of effort into each cast and won’t become tired when putting out lots of bait, which can end up resulting in a loss of accuracy.

These braids – especially SLR – can be incredibly thin as they aren’t intended for ever playing a fish on them, but you will of course need to use a shockleader with them.

Your choice of shockleader is important, as you want something which will allow you to properly compress the rod – mono won’t do as it absorbs some of this force and stretches – and is strong enough to prevent crack-offs, but at the same time isn’t so thick that it causes you problems in the form of frap-ups. The transition from a very thin to a much thicker section of line greatly increases the chances of a frap-up (where the line gets caught around the rod ring) during the cast and normally results in cracking off your expensive spomb.

Korda Arma-Kord in 30lb is perfect, as it is strong enough to withstand the force of the cast, even with a large fully loaded spomb, but is still thin enough that frap-ups are rare – keeping the line wet by dipping the spool in water, or splashing water onto it, every few casts also helps. There are lots of different knots that can be used for joining the two braids, but a back-to-back grinner works well, is simple to tie, and gives a small and neat enough knot.

If you aren’t going to be hurling the largest spods to the horizon, then another option, and one which takes all of the hassle of using leaders and tying knots away, is the Basix Spod/Marker Braid. With a 30lb breaking strain this braid is still thin enough to allow easy casting, but is also able to withstand the force of the cast, as well as when you hit the clip – although you should never point the rod directly at where your spod is landing as the shock of it hitting the clip can cause the braid to snap, so always have a bit of an angle so your rod tip acts as a shock absorber.

Protecting your finger during casting

Thin, strong braided line can cause a lot of damage to your finger if it gets caught around it during the cast.

This can easily happen, especially if your finger is wet or slippery from whatever you’ve been filling your spod with, and the braided leader slips off of it whilst you are compressing the rod. Not only is this painful and can lead to a cut, but it also means that you won’t be able to spod properly for the rest of the session.

An easy way to avoid this is to use a purpose designed finger stall, which still give you plenty of ‘feel’ for casting and fit well as different sizes are available, whilst at the same time protecting your finger. A Korda Finger Stall Strap is also now available, which does a similar job to a golf glove, although just on your casting finger, and keeps the stall in place whilst you’re using it, with a Velcro strap making it quick and easy to fit securely.